Culinary Rebellion Against Stereotypes
Meeting like-minded people is always exciting, especially when facing similar challenges—a silent bond forms, an unspoken understanding: how do we break away from the stereotypes of Chinese culture?
Chinese culture is too often unconsciously undervalued. When you see a well-dressed Asian woman, the immediate assumption is that she must be Korean or Japanese—after all, "Chinese people are too practical to dress well." When you think of a refined Asian dining experience, Japanese cuisine likely dominates your mind. Chinese food, on the other hand, is often reduced to outdated perceptions—“fried rice,” “wontons,” or “hot pot.” Many family-run Chinese restaurants, driven by short-term profitability, lack ambition, and as a result, contribute to this narrow understanding.
Yet, authentic Chinese cuisine is a fusion—a complex art of balance that defies easy categorization. It is about precision—knife skills, control of heat, and a multi-layered orchestration of flavors. Gingko Restaurant is pioneering a confluence of Chinese and Mediterranean cuisines.
Both traditions share a technical foundation, emphasizing precision in handling ingredients and controlling heat. Chinese cuisine celebrates the symphony of diverse elements, while Mediterranean cuisine hones in on the purity of flavors and the elegance of simplicity. By merging these philosophies, Gingko aims to challenge traditional culinary conventions, break stereotypes about Chinese cuisine, and showcase the coexistence of craftsmanship and creativity, and pushing beyond the boundaries that have been imposed on these respective traditions.
This fusion is emblematic of broader cultural dynamics—the intertwining of different legacies into something inherently new yet respectful of each tradition’s roots.
Chinese culture is too often unconsciously undervalued. When you see a well-dressed Asian woman, the immediate assumption is that she must be Korean or Japanese—after all, "Chinese people are too practical to dress well." When you think of a refined Asian dining experience, Japanese cuisine likely dominates your mind. Chinese food, on the other hand, is often reduced to outdated perceptions—“fried rice,” “wontons,” or “hot pot.” Many family-run Chinese restaurants, driven by short-term profitability, lack ambition, and as a result, contribute to this narrow understanding.
Yet, authentic Chinese cuisine is a fusion—a complex art of balance that defies easy categorization. It is about precision—knife skills, control of heat, and a multi-layered orchestration of flavors. Gingko Restaurant is pioneering a confluence of Chinese and Mediterranean cuisines.
Both traditions share a technical foundation, emphasizing precision in handling ingredients and controlling heat. Chinese cuisine celebrates the symphony of diverse elements, while Mediterranean cuisine hones in on the purity of flavors and the elegance of simplicity. By merging these philosophies, Gingko aims to challenge traditional culinary conventions, break stereotypes about Chinese cuisine, and showcase the coexistence of craftsmanship and creativity, and pushing beyond the boundaries that have been imposed on these respective traditions.
This fusion is emblematic of broader cultural dynamics—the intertwining of different legacies into something inherently new yet respectful of each tradition’s roots.
Interviewing
Chunlin Yu
EST8: What does gastronomy mean to you? What draws you to it, and what significance does it hold?
Chunlin: It’s simple—I enjoy cooking for guests and sharing what I love. Seeing people savor the dishes, or giving feedback and ideas, brings immense satisfaction.
EST8: Why do you think what you love will resonate with your guests?
Chunlin: It’s subjective, really. I don’t expect everyone to like it. Every creative restaurant has its audience—people who are drawn to unique flavours and techniques, rather than just seeking sustenance. Those who appreciate it are the ones willing to explore each dish’s depth. For those who aren’t, their reaction isn’t something I dwell on.
EST8: From your perspective, what constitutes the "depth" of food?
Chunlin: It’s an intense personal expression—a chef’s interpretation and recreation of ingredients and techniques. The beauty of creative cuisine lies in the details and imagination. A dish may visually suggest something, but its taste may defy expectations. I seek this contrast—the surprise, the challenge of overturning the ordinary experience of "what you see is what you get." It’s an art distilled through contemplation, refinement, and an exploration of flavours beyond mere appearances.
EST8: What emotions or philosophies guide your culinary vision?
Chunlin: Staying true to the essence of ingredients—highlighting their inherent qualities. This philosophy is where Catalan and Chinese gastronomy converge, not only in ingredient selection but also in cooking methods. Though the techniques and names differ, the underlying principles are similar—whether it’s stewing v.s. slow cooking, sautéing v.s stir.frying, or grilling v.s. barbecue.
Beyond this convergence, I aim to showcase the depth and diversity of Chinese cuisine. It is much more than fried rice, dumplings, or noodles. Chinese gastronomy has a vast geographical and cultural heritage, with countless flavours still awaiting discovery.
EST8: As a Chinese chef working for years in European fine dining, how do you maintain cultural authenticity and your personal narrative?
Chunlin: I lived 14 years in China and then 14 years in Barcelona. My life has been equally divided between these two worlds. Throughout my nine-year culinary career, I’ve continually asked myself—how would I approach Chinese food with Western techniques? How would I create Western dishes with a Chinese flair? In embracing new cultures and skills, I’ve often found myself tracing back to my roots. This blend of experiences and cultural influences has propelled my journey of exploration and creativity.
EST8: Isn’t it challenging to persuade people to try something entirely different from what they know?
Chunlin: Sometimes, guests are puzzled by a dish—they enjoy the flavour but are unfamiliar with certain ingredients or textures. Initially, I assumed that the 35 to 45-year-old demographic would be more open to trying new things. Surprisingly, I found that those over 50 or 60 are even more receptive, as some of our ingredients evoke nostalgic memories from their youth—such as pork’s ear, a flavour linked to times of scarcity.
EST8: How did you come up with this niche idea instead of following other successful examples? Isn’t it risky, especially in a business context?
Chunlin: I wanted to create something distinct—something with my own essence. I didn’t want to follow in others’ footsteps. Risk is inevitable, but that’s also the thrill of entrepreneurship. I’m not here to replicate someone else’s success—I’m here to make something uniquely my own. Like the old Chinese saying, "fortune favors the bold." With relentless effort, I’ve chosen this path, and if the resources allow it, I will continue exploring more sophisticated creations.
CREDITS
PHOTOGRAPHY: Miquel Cabello
ART DIRECTION: Sofía Paura
CONTENT CREATIVE: EST8 MAG
ART DIRECTION: Sofía Paura
CONTENT CREATIVE: EST8 MAG
CHUNLIN YU
Beginning with a fascination for pastries, a deeper passion for cooking gradually emerged. After graduating from Hofmann (Barcelona), gaining experience at Lluerna (Barcelona), Paco Roncero (Madrid), and Gresca (Barcelona), and later returning to Hoffman as an instructor, the journey continued. In 2023, with a firm desire to create dishes reflecting a personal vision, the preparation for opening Gingko began.
LOCATION
Carrer d'Aragó, 191, Barcelona, Spain
Beginning with a fascination for pastries, a deeper passion for cooking gradually emerged. After graduating from Hofmann (Barcelona), gaining experience at Lluerna (Barcelona), Paco Roncero (Madrid), and Gresca (Barcelona), and later returning to Hoffman as an instructor, the journey continued. In 2023, with a firm desire to create dishes reflecting a personal vision, the preparation for opening Gingko began.
LOCATION
Carrer d'Aragó, 191, Barcelona, Spain