The Twilight of Star Designers?
Over the past decade, many brands have relied on the unique styles and personal aura of star designer to fuel rapid growth. Riccard Tisci at Givenchy, Hedy Slimane at Céline, Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga...
These cases shows how a designer’s personal charisma can drive a brand’s success. However, the sustainability of this strategy is now being questioned.
A quiet shift towards “de-personalization” is underway. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello’s designs have refocused on the brand’s core, successfuly reviving the sharp, androgynous, confident feminity that Yves Saint Laurent himself defined in the ‘80s, signaling a return to the brand’s essence.
These cases shows how a designer’s personal charisma can drive a brand’s success. However, the sustainability of this strategy is now being questioned.
A quiet shift towards “de-personalization” is underway. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello’s designs have refocused on the brand’s core, successfuly reviving the sharp, androgynous, confident feminity that Yves Saint Laurent himself defined in the ‘80s, signaling a return to the brand’s essence.
Meanwhile, Bottega Veneta has seamlessly transitioned from Daniel Lee to Matthieu Blazy, continuing to explore innovation in cuts, fabrics, and craftsmanship within a minimalist framework.
Hermès stands as an exception, consistently adhering to a philosophy of understated luxury. Though rarely in the mainstream spotlight, its meticulous tailoring and exquisite leather craftsmanship affirm the brand’s commitment to quality. This unwavering style allows Hermès to maintain independence in the fashion world without having to conform to shifting trends neither highlighting the designer behind.
How will brands navigate the balance between the personal allure of designers and their inherent identity?
The trickier question is: how do they transcend mare sales to focus on long-term brand value and cultural sustainability?
The trickier question is: how do they transcend mare sales to focus on long-term brand value and cultural sustainability?
CREDITS
Photo 1
VALENTINO
Photo 2, 3
SANT LAURENT
Photo 4
THE SMOKING ARCHIVE
Photo 5, 6, 7
BOTTEGA VENETA
Photo 8, 9, 10
Hermès
CONTENT CREATIVE: EST8 MAG